The construction of the traditional costume isdetermined by:
a) The use, everyday, festive or bridal.
b) The age and stage of one's life, daughter, bride, newly married, elderly, for a woman, respectively for men.
c) On the social order. The form of the costume is the mirror of the man who wears the costume.
Angelica Chatzimichalis in her research on traditional costumes, shows that women’s costumes divide into three main categories:
1. Costumes with sigouni.
2. Costumes with kavadi.
3. Costumes with dress.
And the two men’s costumes:
2. The vraka.
The female costume of Naoussa
The traditional female costume of Naoussa belongs to the civil costumes of Macedonia of the 18th until the 19th century and consists of many parts and accessories. It varies considerably depending on age, economic and social situation and stands as the quality of the fabric and richness of embroidery.The daughters received as a “proika” (gift from their families for their marriage) all necessary clothing for every occasion and age. Not only brides from first social class, the wealthy, but also the poorest, are endowed with clothes and blankets that were enough to spend their entire life and unworn spare, to give the dowry to their daughters.
The female costume would cost a fortune and this is why the dresses, because of their high value, were counted in the price of the dowry (“proika”). To endow the daughter or the sister, the people of Naoussa, would have to work hard for many years. All clothes in the female costume were sewed and embroidered only by men tailors. The same tailors did the gold embroidery on dresses, the inside cloth and the cloth for the head.
The costume consists of the following parts:
1. The shirt was silk, Kashmir wool and was weaved in “argalios” and its decoration, was construed with gold embroidery and fine lace.
2. The dress. It is the main part of the local women's costume. It was low on the waist, with fitted bodice and flared skirt, with crisp pleats. It consists of two parts: torso, tight stitched and quite baggy skirt with ruffle (aspects), formed into pleats. The trunk has front neckline, which results in a semicircle opening the ladder. The wedding dress worn as formal. It is plain light colored embroidered. The second dress is silk with more vibrant colors and less gold embroidery. The third dress is silk with gold, and the fourth always woolen, with “charzia”.
3. The trachilia. Is rectangular shape and vertical opening in the center divides into two equal parts. A special feature of the trachilia is the rich gold embroidery and lace, with many intricate combinations.
4. The mafesi. It is a square silk cloth that people would fold in order to form a thin belt. Tucked above the jabot, it would be placed around the center of the dress.
5. The katasarki. This sleeveless shirt, white partly cotton party woolen, woven in lean, worn by Naoussa on underwear, for both winter and summer.
6. Etera. Women's pants manufactured with “chase” or woven white cloth.
7. The sleeves. Complement of female costume from Kashmir fabric and worn under the sleeves of the dress.
8. The cloth. This is an added decorative ornament. It is silk and was put by married women of Naoussa in front of the belt of the skirt.
9. The limpanti. It’s short, snug, sleeved cardigan, the most simple and necessary overcoat worn over the dress throughout the year.
10. The saltamarka. The bridal coat was sewed as the limpanti but the embroidery was made with gold thread. The fabric used was black outfit and rarely velvet structure. The saltamarka worn as the limpanti, winter and summer.
11. The makrylempanto. Winter coat that is light and shorter than the dress.
12. The skourtela is a heavy winter overcoat, with wide gold or beige fur on the front part.
13. The kontogouni is a furry rounded collar in gold color, which they wore under the limpanti or saltamarka, during spring, autumn and winter.
Podia – zostra – zonari
The Podies (gown) were worn in the Naoussa costume, depending on age and circumstance, and are the following:
1. The bridal gown, which was made with excellent silk fabric, and always like the dress, embroidered with gold braid around.
2. The second, a silk one with colorful prints on it.
3. The third and the fourth, worn alongside with the relevant silk or woolen dresses and simple skirts without embroidery for everyday dresses.
4. The zostra, is a very large square scarf, adorned, silken or woolen or lachourenio, which was folded in two with a triangle, and would cover the waist and hips on the left tied with a knot.
5. The zonaria (belts) are woven, silk, and twilled woven or purchased silk. The length was typically two feet and had fringes finished with binding.
6. The kefalokalymma (cover for the head) is one of the key components of the female costume of Naoussa. The woman from Naoussa at her first marriage, would make a tassel (founta) (at older times) or tipilouki (early this century). It's the gift that always was offered by the groom.
7. The “founta” (tassel): It consists of a red fesi, which is placed over the small rounded gold embroidery, the tepes, and all around it is a dense golden fringe. The Macedonian exachtino or oktachtino star is very special , embroidered on the tepe of the kefalokalymma (cover for the head) of Naoussa.
8. The fitosi: It was made of red or black fez, covered throughout with a dense layer of black silk. In the lower portion of tied dark or black paint. Many elderly in their own good outfit.
9. The chipa: Cotton or silk square scarf that women tied to the head daily.
10. The socks: Long woolen or cotton socks women wove themselves and formed a string to tie on the knee.
11. Shoes: Outside the house they wore the stivalia, a kind of short leather boots, either buttoned in front or laced.
For housework they would wear wooden slippers, the gkaletzes.
The male costume of Naoussa
The male costume of Naoussa, is divided in two types, the costume with anteri and the costume with salvari. All were woven by women in homemade loom.
The names of the various parts of the costume of the Greeks of the pre-revolutionary era was Turkish: kaftan, anteri, breeches, poutouki (kind of salvar long pants), Juba (long coat), doulamas (outer costume of the rulers) etc.
Costume with anterithat consists of:
1. The shirt: Depending on the use there were shirts of different qualities. The shirt of the groom is from kashmir, the good is white from cotton and silk, the everyday shirt is panitiko (bought cotton fabric) and the shirt of work is alatzenio (cotton fabric on the loom) blue, striped or plaid. All shirts are sewn in the same manner. They have short upright collar, long straight sleeves and length reaches to mid-thigh.
2. The anteri: Type of open long sleeved costume. The two frontal parts of the costume are tight in the front and it has long sleeves. The only decoration of the costume consists of wide or narrow vertical stripes (londres) and gaitanoma with brisimi round about the finishing and the seams.
3. The tzioumpe: Winter’s long overcoat with black or blue clothing, which was worn over the anteri.
4. The soultouko: Type of interior clothing from black or blue cloth (baize of top quality) and the most casual of saiaki (woolen fabric that has been treated in “netotrivi”). The collar is adorned with lapels and velvet. The length of the medium reaches the leg below the knee.
5. The gileki (vest): Vest without sleeves, with buttons positioned vertically in front, worn under the anteri.
6. The zounari, (belt): The good belts are striped silk, narrow and have fringes. Everyday belt is black, woven in the loom with fine wool and is wide without fringing.
Costume with salvari
In this type of male costume, which prevaled more until the early 20th century, the shirt, the mintani, the vest, the belt and the louri (leash), are similar to those of male costume with salvari.
1. Salvari: Type of pants that are baggy at the top, which tightens and reaches just below the knee. In the middle is fastened with string or vrakozouna colored purple. The good quality salvari are sewn with black or blue clothes and the everyday one with black.
2. The gileki (vests): Here the vest is crisscross. The well-stitched garment with black or blue and the everyday ones with saiaki.
3. The vodetes: Long black strips with special weave, like garters, which are plain on the edge pompon. At the point where the salvari ended below the knee they would wrap the vodetes.
The underwear used are as follows:
1. The katasarki: White shirt, woven in lean, with long sleeves, that they would wear throughout the year.
2. The binivreki: Long woolen socks that would cover up to the knees, with a textile cord.
3. The skoufounia: Woolen socks, knit by hand long up to the knees. They were tied with shoelaces.
4. The giminia: Black leather slipper shoes, very thick.
5. The gourounotsaroucha: Shoes worn for work in the fields.